Once upon a time, a grape was cultivated in the South of Italy and significantly requested in the North. Verdeca. A variety that only recent genetics studies revealed its origin, regarded as obscure until a few years ago. It’s likely that Verdeca is a Greek grape because the DNA profiling (by J.Vouillamoz) has shown that it is identical to Lagorthi, a Greek variety from Kalavrita in the Aigialeia mountains in the Peoloponnisos. There, the grape is still cultivated, as well as on Ionian islands. Thus, researchers are convinced that Verdeca was brought by the Greek settlers in Italy. Why the interest in it by producers of North of Italy? Vermouth. Historically, Italy has a long tradition of Vermouth production, an apéritif made from wine flavored with herbs and spices. This beverage dates back to the Roman period but gained international popularity in the 19th century. Turin was one of the key cities for the development of Italian Vermouth, with renowned brands like Martini & Rossi and Carpano contributing to defining the style and quality of this liqueur.
To make Vermouth, you need a wine, and at that time, Verdeca from Puglia was among the best wines to make it. Therefore, for many years, large quantities of Verdeca moved from the South to the Northern producers of Vermouth. Unfortunately, the fashion of Vermouth as an aperitif faded over the years, and Verdeca almost disappeared even from the vineyards of the South. Only recently, many wineries rediscovered it, and they are producing Verdeca wine even in purity to enhance its features of freshness and aromaticity.
Cantine Paololeo is one of these wineries. This “350 (the altitude a.s.l of the vineyards of this grape) Verdeca 2021” belongs to their Alture (“Highlands”) line, reserved for only 4 native grapes: Verdeca, Minutolo, Bianco d’Alessano, and the red Susumaniello.
This Verdeca comes from hills in Valle d’Itria: its flavors remind ripened citrus fruits and white peach, with nuances of golden apple. I love it because it’s juicy, straightforward, fruity, and fresh. You can drink with the daily meal or even as an aperitif.
A tribute to times when it was the king of happy hours.